When I find helpful information, I share it on this page. There is always something to learn about our pups. Be sure to scroll to the bottom of this page to view videos of how to perform the heimlich maneuver on you pup, and more!!
Tail Language
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Yorkie Cuts
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Hypoglycemia Requires Quick Intervention in Toy Breeds
Toy-breed dogs are not only at risk for hypoglycemia, they can die from the low blood sugar disorder if they do not receive prompt treatment.
When a dog’s blood sugar, or glucose, level drops, it can affect neurological function. Disorientation, tremors and coma may occur. Normally, hormones stimulate the breakdown of stored glycogen to supply the brain and other tissues with fuel. In toy breeds, this process may not happen fast enough, and hypoglycemia results.
Juvenile hypoglycemia occurs in puppies less than 3 months of age. Because puppies have not fully developed the ability to regulate blood glucose concentration and have a high requirement for glucose, they are vulnerable. Stress, cold, malnutrition and intestinal parasites also may trigger juvenile hypoglycemia.
Signs of hypoglycemia are loss of appetite, extreme lethargy, lack of coordination, trembling, muscle twitching, weakness, seizures, and discoloration of skin and gums. Most dogs will not eat or drink when they are in low sugarshock.
Simple cases of hypoglycemia can occur when a dog is overly active with too much time between meals or fasts before vigourous exercise. Hypoglycemia also may occur secondary to another condition. Other causes include Addison’s disease, insulin-producing tumors of the pancreas, severe liver disease, and glycogen storage diseases. If an underlying illness causes hypoglycemia, veterinarians first treat this condition.
Veterinarians are likely to conduct a complete medical history and physical examination to determine the cause in dogs that develop chronic hypoglycemia. Other tests include a complete blood count, blood glucose concentration, urinalysis, routine biochemistry, and blood insulin concentration. An ultrasound may be taken of the abdomen to try and identify a pancreatic or other type of tumor that could cause hypoglycemia.
Puppies and adult dogs that appear to be in a stupor or coma during a hypoglycemic attack should immediately be given sugar water or an oral concentrated solution of glucose, such as corn syrup or Nutri-Cal. Owners of toy breeds should have a glucose source readily available. In an emergency situation, owners should dab sugar water on or under the tongue. The sugar is absorbed directly through the tissue into the bloodstream.
Breeders and owners should proactively look for signs of hypoglycemia in their puppies and should frequently feed toy-breed puppies as a preventive measure. Breeders also are encouraged to include information about hypoglycemia in packets they send with puppies going to new homes. Sharing information may help save a dog’s life.
Signs of Hypoglycemia
• Loss of appetite
• Extreme lethargy
• Lack of coordination
• Trembling
• Muscular twitching
• Weakness
• Seizures
• Unusual behavior
• Dilated pupils
• Stupor or coma
Taken from Purina PROCLUB Published June 2013
When a dog’s blood sugar, or glucose, level drops, it can affect neurological function. Disorientation, tremors and coma may occur. Normally, hormones stimulate the breakdown of stored glycogen to supply the brain and other tissues with fuel. In toy breeds, this process may not happen fast enough, and hypoglycemia results.
Juvenile hypoglycemia occurs in puppies less than 3 months of age. Because puppies have not fully developed the ability to regulate blood glucose concentration and have a high requirement for glucose, they are vulnerable. Stress, cold, malnutrition and intestinal parasites also may trigger juvenile hypoglycemia.
Signs of hypoglycemia are loss of appetite, extreme lethargy, lack of coordination, trembling, muscle twitching, weakness, seizures, and discoloration of skin and gums. Most dogs will not eat or drink when they are in low sugarshock.
Simple cases of hypoglycemia can occur when a dog is overly active with too much time between meals or fasts before vigourous exercise. Hypoglycemia also may occur secondary to another condition. Other causes include Addison’s disease, insulin-producing tumors of the pancreas, severe liver disease, and glycogen storage diseases. If an underlying illness causes hypoglycemia, veterinarians first treat this condition.
Veterinarians are likely to conduct a complete medical history and physical examination to determine the cause in dogs that develop chronic hypoglycemia. Other tests include a complete blood count, blood glucose concentration, urinalysis, routine biochemistry, and blood insulin concentration. An ultrasound may be taken of the abdomen to try and identify a pancreatic or other type of tumor that could cause hypoglycemia.
Puppies and adult dogs that appear to be in a stupor or coma during a hypoglycemic attack should immediately be given sugar water or an oral concentrated solution of glucose, such as corn syrup or Nutri-Cal. Owners of toy breeds should have a glucose source readily available. In an emergency situation, owners should dab sugar water on or under the tongue. The sugar is absorbed directly through the tissue into the bloodstream.
Breeders and owners should proactively look for signs of hypoglycemia in their puppies and should frequently feed toy-breed puppies as a preventive measure. Breeders also are encouraged to include information about hypoglycemia in packets they send with puppies going to new homes. Sharing information may help save a dog’s life.
Signs of Hypoglycemia
• Loss of appetite
• Extreme lethargy
• Lack of coordination
• Trembling
• Muscular twitching
• Weakness
• Seizures
• Unusual behavior
• Dilated pupils
• Stupor or coma
Taken from Purina PROCLUB Published June 2013
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The Function of Dewclaws 101
McIntyre Canine Rehabilitation
Front dewclaws are typically removed by some at 3-5 days of age, because they are believed to be a non-functional digit that poses an unnecessary risk for being injured.
In standing, the front dewclaw may not appear to be functional because it doesn't come in contact with the ground. However, observing the dewclaw when the dog is in motion tells a different story.
Five tendons attach to the dewclaw and play an important role when the dog is in motion. For example:
*When a dog’s lead leg is on the ground during the gallop or canter, the dewclaw is on the ground to stabilize the carpus
*When a dog turns, the dewclaw digs into the ground to support the structures of the limb and prevent torque
If a dog does not have dew claws, there is a higher potential for the carpal ligaments to stretch and tear which could result in laxity and arthritis over time (OUCH!). This can then result in more stress being generated through the dog's carpus, elbow, shoulder, and spine as it tries to compensate for the lack of digit.
In speaking with many vets, you would be surprised at how few dew claw injuries they see.
So- given the front dewclaws' functional use, why are we so quick to remove them?
In dogs, the most common injuries seen by many rehab providers and vets occur in the shoulder complex, yet we don’t see shoulders being removed. Food for thought!
Here are some cool videos if you'd like to learn more about the functional use of dewclaws in dogs:
McIntyre Canine Rehabilitation
Front dewclaws are typically removed by some at 3-5 days of age, because they are believed to be a non-functional digit that poses an unnecessary risk for being injured.
In standing, the front dewclaw may not appear to be functional because it doesn't come in contact with the ground. However, observing the dewclaw when the dog is in motion tells a different story.
Five tendons attach to the dewclaw and play an important role when the dog is in motion. For example:
*When a dog’s lead leg is on the ground during the gallop or canter, the dewclaw is on the ground to stabilize the carpus
*When a dog turns, the dewclaw digs into the ground to support the structures of the limb and prevent torque
If a dog does not have dew claws, there is a higher potential for the carpal ligaments to stretch and tear which could result in laxity and arthritis over time (OUCH!). This can then result in more stress being generated through the dog's carpus, elbow, shoulder, and spine as it tries to compensate for the lack of digit.
In speaking with many vets, you would be surprised at how few dew claw injuries they see.
So- given the front dewclaws' functional use, why are we so quick to remove them?
In dogs, the most common injuries seen by many rehab providers and vets occur in the shoulder complex, yet we don’t see shoulders being removed. Food for thought!
Here are some cool videos if you'd like to learn more about the functional use of dewclaws in dogs:
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https://www.woodhavenlabs.com/documents/dewclaws-injury.pdf
Great article about dew claws and injuries!
Great article about dew claws and injuries!
5 Reasons Your Dog Is Whining
By Katherine RipleyJan 18, 2019
They may not be able to talk, but dogs can use many other methods of communication to interact with us. Sometimes, whining is one of those methods. Whining can be cute, but if it goes on for long periods, or becomes a regular habit, it can get aggravating. If you want to stop your dog from whining, you first have to understand why he is whining. Let’s take a look at some of the possible reasons.
1. He Needs/Wants Something
The most obvious reason your dog may be whining is that he needs or wants something from you, like food, water, or a walk. Maybe his favorite toy is stuck underneath the couch, or the cat is sleeping in his bed. The whining should stop once you identify the problem and fix it.
However, if your dog is whining for more food after you just fed him, this is a problem that needs to be corrected. Make sure no one in the family is giving your furry companion extra helpings, and never feed your dog from the table. If you give your dog more food in response to his whining, the behavior will only get worse.
Additionally, if your dog is whining for another walk after you just took him out, this could indicate a bladder problem or a digestive problem. If your dog has to go again as soon as you come back inside, you should take him to the vet.
2. He’s Whining for Attention
Sometimes dogs whine just because no one is paying attention to them. This is similar to how little kids whine when they’re bored with the grownup talk at the dinner table. Your dog wants someone to play with or something to occupy him.
Make sure you’re giving your dog enough exercise and mental stimulation each day. Boredom doesn’t just lead to whining; it can also lead to destructive behaviors, such as chewing on the furniture and digging up the flower beds.
3. He’s Scared or Stressed
Whining can be your dog’s way of saying that he is scared or anxious. If your dog is also pacing, trembling, or panting while whining, he is likely fearful or anxious about something. Perhaps there is a new guest or resident in the house making your dog nervous, or perhaps he is worried because someone is missing.
If your dog is whining anxiously right before you leave the house, this could indicate separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety often engage in destructive behaviors while you are gone. You can treat your dog's separation anxiety by using desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques.
4. He’s in Pain
Whining could be an indication that your dog is in some kind of physical distress. If he whines every time he tries to go up the stairs or jump on the couch, he may have joint pain because of arthritis.
If there is no obvious reason why your dog is whining, (all his needs are met and there is nothing to make him anxious) you should take your dog to the vet to get him checked out.
5. He’s Saying He’s Sorry
Whining can be a submissive behavior — a way of saying “You’re the boss.” When you scold your dog for chewing your shoes or tipping over the trash can, he might whine as part of his apology.
This behavior comes from dogs’ ancestors, wolves. Wolves can be shunned from the pack when they break the pack rules, like biting too hard during play. To be accepted back in, a wolf will bow his head and put his tail between his legs. This is the same posture our dogs display when they look guilty.
If your dog is whining to apologize to you, simply acknowledge his apology, and walk away. This sends a signal to your dog that he has been welcomed back.
1. He Needs/Wants Something
The most obvious reason your dog may be whining is that he needs or wants something from you, like food, water, or a walk. Maybe his favorite toy is stuck underneath the couch, or the cat is sleeping in his bed. The whining should stop once you identify the problem and fix it.
However, if your dog is whining for more food after you just fed him, this is a problem that needs to be corrected. Make sure no one in the family is giving your furry companion extra helpings, and never feed your dog from the table. If you give your dog more food in response to his whining, the behavior will only get worse.
Additionally, if your dog is whining for another walk after you just took him out, this could indicate a bladder problem or a digestive problem. If your dog has to go again as soon as you come back inside, you should take him to the vet.
2. He’s Whining for Attention
Sometimes dogs whine just because no one is paying attention to them. This is similar to how little kids whine when they’re bored with the grownup talk at the dinner table. Your dog wants someone to play with or something to occupy him.
Make sure you’re giving your dog enough exercise and mental stimulation each day. Boredom doesn’t just lead to whining; it can also lead to destructive behaviors, such as chewing on the furniture and digging up the flower beds.
3. He’s Scared or Stressed
Whining can be your dog’s way of saying that he is scared or anxious. If your dog is also pacing, trembling, or panting while whining, he is likely fearful or anxious about something. Perhaps there is a new guest or resident in the house making your dog nervous, or perhaps he is worried because someone is missing.
If your dog is whining anxiously right before you leave the house, this could indicate separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety often engage in destructive behaviors while you are gone. You can treat your dog's separation anxiety by using desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques.
4. He’s in Pain
Whining could be an indication that your dog is in some kind of physical distress. If he whines every time he tries to go up the stairs or jump on the couch, he may have joint pain because of arthritis.
If there is no obvious reason why your dog is whining, (all his needs are met and there is nothing to make him anxious) you should take your dog to the vet to get him checked out.
5. He’s Saying He’s Sorry
Whining can be a submissive behavior — a way of saying “You’re the boss.” When you scold your dog for chewing your shoes or tipping over the trash can, he might whine as part of his apology.
This behavior comes from dogs’ ancestors, wolves. Wolves can be shunned from the pack when they break the pack rules, like biting too hard during play. To be accepted back in, a wolf will bow his head and put his tail between his legs. This is the same posture our dogs display when they look guilty.
If your dog is whining to apologize to you, simply acknowledge his apology, and walk away. This sends a signal to your dog that he has been welcomed back.
KENNEL COUGH VACCINE EXPOSED
WHAT VACCINE COMPANIES DON'T TELL YOU AND HOW TO APPROACH KENNEL COUGH PREVENTION NATURALLY
I have a question for you. Would you vaccinate a 16-year-old dog with heart disease and a recent diagnosis of a malignant lump?
Until a few days ago, I thought no veterinarian would. However, my bubble was burst during a phone call with my friend from London. She asked me if I could help her 16-year-old Jack Russell Rocky who was recently diagnosed with a mast cell tumor. As I was collecting the medical history, we started talking about vaccines. I only asked casually because I assumed no vet would vaccinate a senior dog. I was wrong.
The news that Rocky has been vaccinated yearly hit me like a ton of bricks because the vaccine label say that animals that are ill should not be vaccinated. After few seconds of disbelief I decided to write this article because, obviously, the discussion must go on.
Over the years, I have witnessed many with a very unreasonable fear of kennel cough, mainly due to fear-based advertising that depicts kennel cough as some sort of horrible disease.
The Merck Veterinary manual says kennel cough is a mild self-limiting disease that results in inflammation of the upper airways transmitted by air… This condition would rarely lead to complications or death…
“Infectious tracheobronchitis is a mild self-limiting disease that results in inflammation of the upper airways transmitted by air and caused possibly but not surely by several different viruses, mainly Parainfluenza virus and also by a bacteria – Bordetella Bronchiseptica, however, the exact cause may vary.”
The Merck Veterinary Manual also states:
“This condition would rarely lead to complications or death only in animals with a weakened immune system. In summary, kennel cough is not much different than a cold that most of us catch from time to time and cure by rest and tea.”
Despite the fact that kennel cough is nothing more than a dog version of a cold, most boarding facilities, daycares, training centers and grooming facilities request dogs using their services have the kennel cough vaccine. They often mean well, but they are mainly frightened of being held liable for a dog getting kennel cough.
Books are theory, but what about in real life veterinary practice? In more than 20 years in clinical practice, I have not seen one single dog succumb to kennel cough and as the Merck manual says, most dogs recover on their own without the use of any antibiotics. The risk of a dog dying of kennel cough is not any different than of a person dying of a common cold or flu.
More than 15 years back, I too used to use kennel cough vaccine because I didn’t know any better. I remember seeing absolutely healthy dogs getting kennel cough vaccine and coming back a few days later with actual symptoms of the disease. When I called the vaccine rep, his response was that these dogs must have been exposed prior to vaccination. I later realized that the live modified vaccine was the likely reason. For your interest, this is what the British medical safety data sheet for Nobivac KC vaccine states:
“Contraindications, warnings: Particularly in very young susceptible puppies, mild discharges from the eyes and nose can occur from the day after vaccination, sometimes accompanied by sneezing and coughing. Signs are generally transient, but in occasional cases may persist for up to four weeks. In animals, which show more severe signs, appropriate antibiotic treatment may be indicated.
To me, this statement clearly says that the vaccine can cause the disease
A FEW PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS WHAT TO DO
*Remember that the Merck Veterinary Manual says that kennel cough is a mild self-limiting disease.
*Avoid the kennel cough vaccination if possible no matter what age your dog is.
*If a service provider you use requests a kennel cough vaccine, share this information with them and be willing to sign a waiver.
*Make sure that your dog’s immune system is in top-notch condition. The best way to achieve this is to feed high-quality, all-natural raw food and adding essential supplements to make your dog's immune system stronger.
*Avoid carbohydrate-based and processed foods, milk products and wheat that can compromise the immune system.
*Look for well-aired, clean facilities that are not overcrowded and your dog likes to visit. Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM
I have a question for you. Would you vaccinate a 16-year-old dog with heart disease and a recent diagnosis of a malignant lump?
Until a few days ago, I thought no veterinarian would. However, my bubble was burst during a phone call with my friend from London. She asked me if I could help her 16-year-old Jack Russell Rocky who was recently diagnosed with a mast cell tumor. As I was collecting the medical history, we started talking about vaccines. I only asked casually because I assumed no vet would vaccinate a senior dog. I was wrong.
The news that Rocky has been vaccinated yearly hit me like a ton of bricks because the vaccine label say that animals that are ill should not be vaccinated. After few seconds of disbelief I decided to write this article because, obviously, the discussion must go on.
Over the years, I have witnessed many with a very unreasonable fear of kennel cough, mainly due to fear-based advertising that depicts kennel cough as some sort of horrible disease.
The Merck Veterinary manual says kennel cough is a mild self-limiting disease that results in inflammation of the upper airways transmitted by air… This condition would rarely lead to complications or death…
“Infectious tracheobronchitis is a mild self-limiting disease that results in inflammation of the upper airways transmitted by air and caused possibly but not surely by several different viruses, mainly Parainfluenza virus and also by a bacteria – Bordetella Bronchiseptica, however, the exact cause may vary.”
The Merck Veterinary Manual also states:
“This condition would rarely lead to complications or death only in animals with a weakened immune system. In summary, kennel cough is not much different than a cold that most of us catch from time to time and cure by rest and tea.”
Despite the fact that kennel cough is nothing more than a dog version of a cold, most boarding facilities, daycares, training centers and grooming facilities request dogs using their services have the kennel cough vaccine. They often mean well, but they are mainly frightened of being held liable for a dog getting kennel cough.
Books are theory, but what about in real life veterinary practice? In more than 20 years in clinical practice, I have not seen one single dog succumb to kennel cough and as the Merck manual says, most dogs recover on their own without the use of any antibiotics. The risk of a dog dying of kennel cough is not any different than of a person dying of a common cold or flu.
More than 15 years back, I too used to use kennel cough vaccine because I didn’t know any better. I remember seeing absolutely healthy dogs getting kennel cough vaccine and coming back a few days later with actual symptoms of the disease. When I called the vaccine rep, his response was that these dogs must have been exposed prior to vaccination. I later realized that the live modified vaccine was the likely reason. For your interest, this is what the British medical safety data sheet for Nobivac KC vaccine states:
“Contraindications, warnings: Particularly in very young susceptible puppies, mild discharges from the eyes and nose can occur from the day after vaccination, sometimes accompanied by sneezing and coughing. Signs are generally transient, but in occasional cases may persist for up to four weeks. In animals, which show more severe signs, appropriate antibiotic treatment may be indicated.
To me, this statement clearly says that the vaccine can cause the disease
A FEW PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS WHAT TO DO
*Remember that the Merck Veterinary Manual says that kennel cough is a mild self-limiting disease.
*Avoid the kennel cough vaccination if possible no matter what age your dog is.
*If a service provider you use requests a kennel cough vaccine, share this information with them and be willing to sign a waiver.
*Make sure that your dog’s immune system is in top-notch condition. The best way to achieve this is to feed high-quality, all-natural raw food and adding essential supplements to make your dog's immune system stronger.
*Avoid carbohydrate-based and processed foods, milk products and wheat that can compromise the immune system.
*Look for well-aired, clean facilities that are not overcrowded and your dog likes to visit. Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM
Dog Parks Are Dangerous!
Use extreme caution when taking your dogs to a dog park. Or better yet - don't visit public dog parks at all.
By Nancy Kerns
I’ve never owned a dog who HAD to exercise at a fenced dog park, but I’ve fostered a number of them. I’ve been able to train all of my dogs to perform a solid recall, even when faced with tempting distractions (deer, rabbits, other hikers with dogs, etc.), and have always lived in places where I had access to off-leash trails. But when I’ve fostered wayward adolescent dogs, there have been times when I thought the dog would benefit greatly from a long period of exercising hard, but I needed the security of a fenced area, because we hadn’t yet had enough time together to build a solid recall. At those times, I’ve turned to a dog park – but only with extreme caution, because I think the hazards and risks of dog parks, in very many cases, outweigh the benefits.
The most extreme risk is also the most common at dog parks: that of other dogs hurting (either physically or by intimidation) or even killing your dog.
I’m writing this today because I just read this chilling, very abbreviated account of a completely avoidable dog park fatality. A woman was at the park with her small, middle-aged dog. This particular park doesn’t have a separate area for small dogs, so in my mind, that’s strike one. I would never take a small dog to a big park where there are big dogs running around! Even if they don’t get attacked or harassed by bigger dogs, small dogs can be seriously injured or killed if they accidentally collide with a big dog who is running fast.
Plus, a few-seconds-long video clip of the dog playfully rolling around on the grass was enough to show me that this was not a dog who *needed* to be exercised at an off-leash park! She looked like her exercise needs could easily have been met on a long line in any small open space. This little dog was attacked by two large dogs who were at the park with a dog walker who had been hired through a popular app – in other words, someone who didn’t necessarily know the dogs, and (probably) did not have the experience or education to know that the dogs were dangerous to other dogs.
I don’t ever go to a dog park blindly. I won’t take a dog with me the first time I go to ANY dog park; I want to see it first, walk its fence line, locate any potential hazards or things that might be dangerous or challenging for my dog. I’ll never forget the time I was at Point Isabel, a famous open-space off-leash area in Richmond, California (near Berkeley, on the east side of the San Francisco Bay), and there were a number of people trying to help a woman capture her dog, who was swimming in the bay, and kept swimming farther and farther from shore in pursuit of seagulls and other birds he saw. She was sobbing and kept crying out, “I didn’t know they could just get in the water! I thought there was a fence! I didn’t KNOW!” She apparently had never been to the shoreline park, but had taken her water-loving dog there and unclipped his leash anyway. Oops.
It also helps to know the best time to visit any given park. Perhaps it doesn’t matter so much if you have a big, super gregarious, playful dog, who loves all other dogs and doesn’t mind being bossed around by more assertive individuals, but if you have a dog whose social grace depends on NOT having other dogs in his face, you might want to figure out when very few other people and dogs are at that particular park. If there is literally no time when the park is empty, I would find a non-dog-park fenced space where no other dogs are present to exercise that dog off-leash. I just wouldn’t risk worsening that dog’s social skills by setting him up to fail!
In my opinion, very few of the dogs who are taken to dog parks need that sort of space; most of the dogs who are there really shouldn’t be there. Even if they are in no way aggressive, dogs who don’t enjoy other dogs shouldn’t be there, because they WILL be approached by other dogs; that’s a given. For example, my 10-year-old dog Otto can get along with any other dog – as long as they pretty much leave him alone. He doesn’t want to play with other dogs, he doesn’t want to go sniff them, and he certainly isn’t going to put up with any other dogs sniffing HIS butt. So there is no earthly reason to take him to a dog park, where he will undoubtedly be forced to suffer all sorts of fools approaching him and trying to smell him. In no time at all, he’d snap at some dog, and some younger, bigger dog may just take offense and – ugh, I can’t even think about it.
Puppies and young adolescent dogs certainly benefit from the opportunity to run, socialize, and play with other playful dogs. But taking an inexperienced adolescent to a dog park is something else I would never recommend. There are too many playground bullies at dog parks – dogs who get a little charge out of creaming “new kids” at the park. Think about it: You do your pup no favors to take him to a place where, in the middle of the most fun he can have, he’s going to get violently assaulted and/or pee-his-pants scared. It might work if there is a separate area where he can play with the small dogs – and poses no risk to the small dogs himself. Otherwise, I’d suggest sticking with organized puppy socials offered by your trainer or private play dates set up with other local puppy owners.
Same goes for timid dogs. I would never bring a socially fearful dog to any dog park. Period.
Private dog parks are a concept with a lot of promise. You’d pay for the safety and cleanliness of the park, and because all the park-goers would be pre-screened for friendliness. Park attendants would enforce the rules and educate users about appropriate and inappropriate dog behavior.
But public dog parks? I’d avoid them unless you HAD to use them, and then, only with extreme caution.
The most extreme risk is also the most common at dog parks: that of other dogs hurting (either physically or by intimidation) or even killing your dog.
I’m writing this today because I just read this chilling, very abbreviated account of a completely avoidable dog park fatality. A woman was at the park with her small, middle-aged dog. This particular park doesn’t have a separate area for small dogs, so in my mind, that’s strike one. I would never take a small dog to a big park where there are big dogs running around! Even if they don’t get attacked or harassed by bigger dogs, small dogs can be seriously injured or killed if they accidentally collide with a big dog who is running fast.
Plus, a few-seconds-long video clip of the dog playfully rolling around on the grass was enough to show me that this was not a dog who *needed* to be exercised at an off-leash park! She looked like her exercise needs could easily have been met on a long line in any small open space. This little dog was attacked by two large dogs who were at the park with a dog walker who had been hired through a popular app – in other words, someone who didn’t necessarily know the dogs, and (probably) did not have the experience or education to know that the dogs were dangerous to other dogs.
I don’t ever go to a dog park blindly. I won’t take a dog with me the first time I go to ANY dog park; I want to see it first, walk its fence line, locate any potential hazards or things that might be dangerous or challenging for my dog. I’ll never forget the time I was at Point Isabel, a famous open-space off-leash area in Richmond, California (near Berkeley, on the east side of the San Francisco Bay), and there were a number of people trying to help a woman capture her dog, who was swimming in the bay, and kept swimming farther and farther from shore in pursuit of seagulls and other birds he saw. She was sobbing and kept crying out, “I didn’t know they could just get in the water! I thought there was a fence! I didn’t KNOW!” She apparently had never been to the shoreline park, but had taken her water-loving dog there and unclipped his leash anyway. Oops.
It also helps to know the best time to visit any given park. Perhaps it doesn’t matter so much if you have a big, super gregarious, playful dog, who loves all other dogs and doesn’t mind being bossed around by more assertive individuals, but if you have a dog whose social grace depends on NOT having other dogs in his face, you might want to figure out when very few other people and dogs are at that particular park. If there is literally no time when the park is empty, I would find a non-dog-park fenced space where no other dogs are present to exercise that dog off-leash. I just wouldn’t risk worsening that dog’s social skills by setting him up to fail!
In my opinion, very few of the dogs who are taken to dog parks need that sort of space; most of the dogs who are there really shouldn’t be there. Even if they are in no way aggressive, dogs who don’t enjoy other dogs shouldn’t be there, because they WILL be approached by other dogs; that’s a given. For example, my 10-year-old dog Otto can get along with any other dog – as long as they pretty much leave him alone. He doesn’t want to play with other dogs, he doesn’t want to go sniff them, and he certainly isn’t going to put up with any other dogs sniffing HIS butt. So there is no earthly reason to take him to a dog park, where he will undoubtedly be forced to suffer all sorts of fools approaching him and trying to smell him. In no time at all, he’d snap at some dog, and some younger, bigger dog may just take offense and – ugh, I can’t even think about it.
Puppies and young adolescent dogs certainly benefit from the opportunity to run, socialize, and play with other playful dogs. But taking an inexperienced adolescent to a dog park is something else I would never recommend. There are too many playground bullies at dog parks – dogs who get a little charge out of creaming “new kids” at the park. Think about it: You do your pup no favors to take him to a place where, in the middle of the most fun he can have, he’s going to get violently assaulted and/or pee-his-pants scared. It might work if there is a separate area where he can play with the small dogs – and poses no risk to the small dogs himself. Otherwise, I’d suggest sticking with organized puppy socials offered by your trainer or private play dates set up with other local puppy owners.
Same goes for timid dogs. I would never bring a socially fearful dog to any dog park. Period.
Private dog parks are a concept with a lot of promise. You’d pay for the safety and cleanliness of the park, and because all the park-goers would be pre-screened for friendliness. Park attendants would enforce the rules and educate users about appropriate and inappropriate dog behavior.
But public dog parks? I’d avoid them unless you HAD to use them, and then, only with extreme caution.
The Dangers Of Retractable Dog Leashes
Many dog owners use retractable leashes but are unaware of the hazards they pose. The devices are popular because they are compact and allow dogs the freedom to walk up to 26 feet away without being untethered. However, there are some serious downsides and dangers to retractable leashes that lead many dog trainers to advise against them.
1. They provide much less control over your dog. If your dog gets into any trouble you may have difficulty handling the situation. For instance, if your dog runs into the middle of the street or meets an unfriendly dog, it will be much harder for you to retrieve your dog safely than if you had a standard 6 foot leash.
2. The cord can break. Dogs, especially larger dogs have been known to snap the cord if they are startled or pull away suddenly. In 2008, 13-year-old Dereka Williams became partially blinded after a retractable dog leash broke and the metal clasp snapped back and hit her in the face.
3. It’s easy for dogs and people to get tangled up in the cord. The resulting injuries can be gruesome! People have gotten severe rope burns, cuts and even finger amputations from the cords. Dogs can also get terrible injuries including neck wounds (even lacerated tracheas!) and spinal injuries.
4. Retractable leashes do not teach a dog good leash manners. They are not a good idea for puppies and untrained dogs because the retractable leash gives way and because there is always tension on the dog, dogs will learn it’s okay to pull on the lead rather than heeling. Not only that, the risk of injuries may go up if the dog is not well-mannered on a retractable leash.
5. Children should not learn to walk a dog with retractable leashes. For all the reasons listed above, kids should not be taught to handle a dog with a retractable leash!
If you have one of these leashes you might want to consider switching to a standard one!
Read more at http://www.reshareworthy.com/retractable-dog-leash-warning/#IaXcvL7fz3xKzfe5.99
1. They provide much less control over your dog. If your dog gets into any trouble you may have difficulty handling the situation. For instance, if your dog runs into the middle of the street or meets an unfriendly dog, it will be much harder for you to retrieve your dog safely than if you had a standard 6 foot leash.
2. The cord can break. Dogs, especially larger dogs have been known to snap the cord if they are startled or pull away suddenly. In 2008, 13-year-old Dereka Williams became partially blinded after a retractable dog leash broke and the metal clasp snapped back and hit her in the face.
3. It’s easy for dogs and people to get tangled up in the cord. The resulting injuries can be gruesome! People have gotten severe rope burns, cuts and even finger amputations from the cords. Dogs can also get terrible injuries including neck wounds (even lacerated tracheas!) and spinal injuries.
4. Retractable leashes do not teach a dog good leash manners. They are not a good idea for puppies and untrained dogs because the retractable leash gives way and because there is always tension on the dog, dogs will learn it’s okay to pull on the lead rather than heeling. Not only that, the risk of injuries may go up if the dog is not well-mannered on a retractable leash.
5. Children should not learn to walk a dog with retractable leashes. For all the reasons listed above, kids should not be taught to handle a dog with a retractable leash!
If you have one of these leashes you might want to consider switching to a standard one!
Read more at http://www.reshareworthy.com/retractable-dog-leash-warning/#IaXcvL7fz3xKzfe5.99
The 6 Mistakes Dog Owners Make That Can Turn Angels Into Demons
By Dr. Becker
Raising a good canine citizen doesn't come naturally to every dog guardian, which is one of the reasons so many unlucky pups are relinquished to animal shelters each year. Many people don't realize that molding a puppy or adopted adult dog into a balanced canine companion requires a considerable investment of time and energy.
And while everyone recognizes the difference between a well-mannered dog and one that is unpredictable and out-of-control, often dog owners develop bad habits without realizing it, and are left feeling confused and frustrated with their dog's uncooperative behavior.
The Dirty Half-Dozen: 6 Common Mistakes You Might Be Making with Your Dog
1. Doing the right thing, but at the wrong time.
Every interaction with your pet sends a message, and sometimes dog owners inadvertently send the wrong ones. For example, giving your pup attention or affection when she's performing an undesirable behavior can reinforce that behavior, increasing the likelihood she'll continue to do it.
Remember: To your dog, attention and especially affection are rewards, so try to offer them only when your pet is performing desired behaviors.
2. Who's walking whom?
Your dog looks to you for guidance and leadership. He needs to know what his boundaries are in order to feel secure with you. So when you take him for a walk, he should walk beside you – not out in front of you, yanking at the leash. When you're preparing his meal, he should sit and wait politely, not hump your leg. When you come through the door and he's beside himself with joy, he should still quickly respond to your command to "Sit" and "Stay."
Remember: Your dog needs boundaries and manners, so take the time to help him become be a self-confident, balanced individual.
3. Mistaking your dog for a human.
Your dog is: Canis lupus. You are: Homo sapiens. You and your dog are different species. Put another way, your dog is not a human. And treating her as if she is will deprive her of many things that can make her healthy and happy. She doesn't need that processed pet food, no matter how cute you think the TV ad is. She needs balanced, carnivore-appropriate nutrition. She doesn't really need another stuffed toy or rain boots, but she does need at least 20 minutes of aerobic exercise every day.
Remember: As much as we love our canine family members and often feel like their mom or dad, they are distinct from us in many wonderful and inspiring ways. Focus on honoring and nurturing all that makes your dog, a dog.
4. Fighting tooth and nail.
Okay, it's a silly play on words, but seriously... two hygiene items every pet parent should but often doesn't attend to are their dog's teeth and nails. You should brush your dog's teeth if not every day, at least several times a week. Otherwise, like most dogs over the age of 3, he'll have gum disease, and as time passes the situation will worsen until his mouth smells bad and feels worse. Then you'll be faced with a big vet bill and he'll probably lose a few teeth.
Your dog's nails also need to be clipped regularly, and here's how to do it. How often depends on how fast they grow and how much time he spends on surfaces that grind them down naturally. If you can't bear to clip little BooBoo's nails yourself, I encourage you to make a standing appointment with a groomer or veterinarian who will do it for you. You'd be amazed at how often dogs develop serious paw problems from nails that have grown too long.
Remember: Don't fight tooth and nail to avoid cleaning those teeth and clipping those nails. You and your dog just need to learn to deal with it. You'll be happy you did. Trust me.
5. Showing hate for the crate.
I'm perpetually surprised by how many dog guardians think crates are an invention of the devil. If you're one of them, here's what you're missing in the equation: your Canis lupus is by nature a den dweller, and a crate affords you the opportunity to work with your pup's natural desire to seek out small, dark, safe spots to inhabit. This can be a huge win for you, as well as him, if you need to housetrain the little fellow, not to mention for car or plane travel, or overnight stays with friends, family, or at a pet-friendly hotel.
Remember: Crate hate is not logical, unless an animal has been emotionally traumatized by people who made bad choices with a crate. Try to keep an open mind. Talk to some dog loving friends who've crate trained their pups. Chances are they'll tell you their dog seeks out her crate on her own for naps, at bedtime, and whenever she just wants a little me time.
6. Accentuating the negative.
If you want a balanced, well-mannered dog, the way to achieve this is with positive reinforcement behavior training, not punishment-based training. A growing number of studies show that positive reinforcement training of our furry companions is much more effective than training that involves dominance and punishment. Some studies even conclude that punishment-based training actually creates additional problem behaviors, which is certainly an outcome no dog guardian wants.
Remember: Positive reinforcement training is based on the simple notion that rewarding your dog for desired behavior will encourage more of that behavior.
By Dr. Becker
Raising a good canine citizen doesn't come naturally to every dog guardian, which is one of the reasons so many unlucky pups are relinquished to animal shelters each year. Many people don't realize that molding a puppy or adopted adult dog into a balanced canine companion requires a considerable investment of time and energy.
And while everyone recognizes the difference between a well-mannered dog and one that is unpredictable and out-of-control, often dog owners develop bad habits without realizing it, and are left feeling confused and frustrated with their dog's uncooperative behavior.
The Dirty Half-Dozen: 6 Common Mistakes You Might Be Making with Your Dog
1. Doing the right thing, but at the wrong time.
Every interaction with your pet sends a message, and sometimes dog owners inadvertently send the wrong ones. For example, giving your pup attention or affection when she's performing an undesirable behavior can reinforce that behavior, increasing the likelihood she'll continue to do it.
Remember: To your dog, attention and especially affection are rewards, so try to offer them only when your pet is performing desired behaviors.
2. Who's walking whom?
Your dog looks to you for guidance and leadership. He needs to know what his boundaries are in order to feel secure with you. So when you take him for a walk, he should walk beside you – not out in front of you, yanking at the leash. When you're preparing his meal, he should sit and wait politely, not hump your leg. When you come through the door and he's beside himself with joy, he should still quickly respond to your command to "Sit" and "Stay."
Remember: Your dog needs boundaries and manners, so take the time to help him become be a self-confident, balanced individual.
3. Mistaking your dog for a human.
Your dog is: Canis lupus. You are: Homo sapiens. You and your dog are different species. Put another way, your dog is not a human. And treating her as if she is will deprive her of many things that can make her healthy and happy. She doesn't need that processed pet food, no matter how cute you think the TV ad is. She needs balanced, carnivore-appropriate nutrition. She doesn't really need another stuffed toy or rain boots, but she does need at least 20 minutes of aerobic exercise every day.
Remember: As much as we love our canine family members and often feel like their mom or dad, they are distinct from us in many wonderful and inspiring ways. Focus on honoring and nurturing all that makes your dog, a dog.
4. Fighting tooth and nail.
Okay, it's a silly play on words, but seriously... two hygiene items every pet parent should but often doesn't attend to are their dog's teeth and nails. You should brush your dog's teeth if not every day, at least several times a week. Otherwise, like most dogs over the age of 3, he'll have gum disease, and as time passes the situation will worsen until his mouth smells bad and feels worse. Then you'll be faced with a big vet bill and he'll probably lose a few teeth.
Your dog's nails also need to be clipped regularly, and here's how to do it. How often depends on how fast they grow and how much time he spends on surfaces that grind them down naturally. If you can't bear to clip little BooBoo's nails yourself, I encourage you to make a standing appointment with a groomer or veterinarian who will do it for you. You'd be amazed at how often dogs develop serious paw problems from nails that have grown too long.
Remember: Don't fight tooth and nail to avoid cleaning those teeth and clipping those nails. You and your dog just need to learn to deal with it. You'll be happy you did. Trust me.
5. Showing hate for the crate.
I'm perpetually surprised by how many dog guardians think crates are an invention of the devil. If you're one of them, here's what you're missing in the equation: your Canis lupus is by nature a den dweller, and a crate affords you the opportunity to work with your pup's natural desire to seek out small, dark, safe spots to inhabit. This can be a huge win for you, as well as him, if you need to housetrain the little fellow, not to mention for car or plane travel, or overnight stays with friends, family, or at a pet-friendly hotel.
Remember: Crate hate is not logical, unless an animal has been emotionally traumatized by people who made bad choices with a crate. Try to keep an open mind. Talk to some dog loving friends who've crate trained their pups. Chances are they'll tell you their dog seeks out her crate on her own for naps, at bedtime, and whenever she just wants a little me time.
6. Accentuating the negative.
If you want a balanced, well-mannered dog, the way to achieve this is with positive reinforcement behavior training, not punishment-based training. A growing number of studies show that positive reinforcement training of our furry companions is much more effective than training that involves dominance and punishment. Some studies even conclude that punishment-based training actually creates additional problem behaviors, which is certainly an outcome no dog guardian wants.
Remember: Positive reinforcement training is based on the simple notion that rewarding your dog for desired behavior will encourage more of that behavior.
The 7 Most Commonly Stolen Pets - Is Yours One of Them?
By Dr. Becker
Pet theft is on the rise in the U.S. According to the American Kennel Club National Pet Theft Database, 831 dogs were stolen in 2015, which is a 30 percent rise from the number stolen in 2014.
The overall number of pets stolen each year is higher than this, even, as the AKC is only reporting on AKC-recognized breeds and doesn’t include cats, either. Pit bulls and pit bull mixes are most commonly stolen, followed by:
Yorkshire terriers.....Chihuahuas.....Bulldogs.....Pomeranians.....Shih tzus.....German shepherds
Why Are Pets Stolen?
There is often a monetary reason why pets are stolen. Purebred dogs, which are the most common victims of theft, can be worth thousands of dollars if sold to an unsuspecting family. Purebred puppies are especially coveted by criminals, but any high-value (monetarily speaking) dog is at risk.
Dog-flipping schemes are unfortunately all-too-common as well. A person may steal a purebred puppy or claim to be a lost puppy’s owner. Then they quickly sell the dog online for a profit.
If your pet isn’t spayed or neutered, she or he may be stolen and sold for a high price to a breeder or a puppy mill.
Some stolen pets are sold to laboratories, universities and other research institutions for use in experiments. There are actually “Class B dealers” licensed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture that may legally collect dogs and cats from “random sources” and sell them for research use.
Unfortunately, sometimes stolen (and lost) pets may get caught up in the mix. According to the Humane Society of the United States:
“These dealers obtain dogs and cats from various ‘random sources,’ including auctions, flea markets and animal shelters.
Some Class B dealers have also been known to obtain animals from unregulated middlemen known as ‘bunchers,’ who have been documented acquiring lost, stray and ‘free to a good home’ pets, and even pets from neighborhood backyards.
After purchasing animals, the dealers typically hold them until they transport them to universities or other research institutions.”
It’s sickening to think about, but other dogs, particularly German shepherds, Doberman pinschers and American Pit Bull Terriers, may be stolen and used as “bait” dogs in dog-fighting rings (cats may also be stolen for this purpose). Pets may also be stolen and kept until a reward is offered.
Some pet thefts are also emotionally driven. Pets may be stolen as an act of revenge or by a former romantic partner who believes the animal is rightfully theirs, for instance.
How to Protect Your Pet From Being Stolen
Unlike material possessions, your pet is irreplaceable. Yet many pet owners neglect to take even the most basic safety precautions. While a pet may be stolen at any time, there are steps you can take to significantly reduce your pet’s chances of becoming a victim.
1.Avoid Leaving Your Pet Unattended
A dog left alone outside, even in a fenced-in backyard, is a prime target for thieves. A fenced yard with a locked gate may deter some thieves, but not all (especially if you regularly leave your dog alone for long periods).
Be sure you keep an eye on your pet at all times and avoid letting him wander off-leash to areas where you can’t keep see him.
Also avoid tying your dog out in front of stores or restaurants or leaving him in a vehicle unattended (this also poses a risk of heat stroke). Howard Simpson of Integrated Security and Communications in Tyngsboro, Massachusetts told Care2:
“Leaving your dog tied up in front of a store is about as ludicrous as leaving your child out front and saying, ‘Wait right there, I’ll be back in 10 minutes’ …
Do yourself a favor and realize that there are security risks in even the safest of neighborhoods. Being naive makes you a target.”
2.Avoid Sharing Details About Your Dog With Strangers
If you’re on a walk with your dog, it’s natural to chat with passersby. However, if a stranger asks you how much your dog cost, it’s a red flag. Avoid sharing this information and do not give out details about where you and your dog live.
3.Create a Neighborhood Watch
Neighbors can act as each other’s eyes and ears, helping to keep an eye out for suspicious activity.
When you become familiar with the pets in your area, you’ll know something is wrong if you see a stranger with a neighbor’s pet. Your neighborhood will also be less likely to be targeted in the first place if thieves know you’re looking out for each other.
4.Keep an Up-to-Date Photo
A recent photo of your pet can serve as proof that you’re his rightful owner. A microchip can also serve this purpose.
What to Do If Your Dog Is Stolen
If you think your dog has been stolen, call the police and make a police report. Also notify your local animal control officer. If your dog is microchipped, you can ask to have its serial number and your dog’s description added to the “stolen article” category on the National Crime Information Center.
Next, put up “Lost Dog” flyers with your dog’s photo in your neighborhood and post it online to your social circles and also local sites that report lost pets. Ask around in your neighborhood whether anyone saw any suspicious activity when your pet went missing.
Another option is to contact your local TV station, radio station and newspaper and ask them to report your lost pet online. State that a reward is offered for your pet’s return (but don’t say how much). You can also keep an eye out for any online ads advertising the sale of a pet that meets your pet’s description.
Hopefully you will never need to use these suggestions, but if the unthinkable does happen, you will at least be prepared. Quick action may save the life of your pet. Post your pet’s info on websites such as FidoFinder, PawBoost, LOSTMYDOGGIE.COM, The Center for Lost Pets, PetFinder and Pet FBI. Also post information on your community’s social media page.
By Dr. Becker
Pet theft is on the rise in the U.S. According to the American Kennel Club National Pet Theft Database, 831 dogs were stolen in 2015, which is a 30 percent rise from the number stolen in 2014.
The overall number of pets stolen each year is higher than this, even, as the AKC is only reporting on AKC-recognized breeds and doesn’t include cats, either. Pit bulls and pit bull mixes are most commonly stolen, followed by:
Yorkshire terriers.....Chihuahuas.....Bulldogs.....Pomeranians.....Shih tzus.....German shepherds
Why Are Pets Stolen?
There is often a monetary reason why pets are stolen. Purebred dogs, which are the most common victims of theft, can be worth thousands of dollars if sold to an unsuspecting family. Purebred puppies are especially coveted by criminals, but any high-value (monetarily speaking) dog is at risk.
Dog-flipping schemes are unfortunately all-too-common as well. A person may steal a purebred puppy or claim to be a lost puppy’s owner. Then they quickly sell the dog online for a profit.
If your pet isn’t spayed or neutered, she or he may be stolen and sold for a high price to a breeder or a puppy mill.
Some stolen pets are sold to laboratories, universities and other research institutions for use in experiments. There are actually “Class B dealers” licensed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture that may legally collect dogs and cats from “random sources” and sell them for research use.
Unfortunately, sometimes stolen (and lost) pets may get caught up in the mix. According to the Humane Society of the United States:
“These dealers obtain dogs and cats from various ‘random sources,’ including auctions, flea markets and animal shelters.
Some Class B dealers have also been known to obtain animals from unregulated middlemen known as ‘bunchers,’ who have been documented acquiring lost, stray and ‘free to a good home’ pets, and even pets from neighborhood backyards.
After purchasing animals, the dealers typically hold them until they transport them to universities or other research institutions.”
It’s sickening to think about, but other dogs, particularly German shepherds, Doberman pinschers and American Pit Bull Terriers, may be stolen and used as “bait” dogs in dog-fighting rings (cats may also be stolen for this purpose). Pets may also be stolen and kept until a reward is offered.
Some pet thefts are also emotionally driven. Pets may be stolen as an act of revenge or by a former romantic partner who believes the animal is rightfully theirs, for instance.
How to Protect Your Pet From Being Stolen
Unlike material possessions, your pet is irreplaceable. Yet many pet owners neglect to take even the most basic safety precautions. While a pet may be stolen at any time, there are steps you can take to significantly reduce your pet’s chances of becoming a victim.
1.Avoid Leaving Your Pet Unattended
A dog left alone outside, even in a fenced-in backyard, is a prime target for thieves. A fenced yard with a locked gate may deter some thieves, but not all (especially if you regularly leave your dog alone for long periods).
Be sure you keep an eye on your pet at all times and avoid letting him wander off-leash to areas where you can’t keep see him.
Also avoid tying your dog out in front of stores or restaurants or leaving him in a vehicle unattended (this also poses a risk of heat stroke). Howard Simpson of Integrated Security and Communications in Tyngsboro, Massachusetts told Care2:
“Leaving your dog tied up in front of a store is about as ludicrous as leaving your child out front and saying, ‘Wait right there, I’ll be back in 10 minutes’ …
Do yourself a favor and realize that there are security risks in even the safest of neighborhoods. Being naive makes you a target.”
2.Avoid Sharing Details About Your Dog With Strangers
If you’re on a walk with your dog, it’s natural to chat with passersby. However, if a stranger asks you how much your dog cost, it’s a red flag. Avoid sharing this information and do not give out details about where you and your dog live.
3.Create a Neighborhood Watch
Neighbors can act as each other’s eyes and ears, helping to keep an eye out for suspicious activity.
When you become familiar with the pets in your area, you’ll know something is wrong if you see a stranger with a neighbor’s pet. Your neighborhood will also be less likely to be targeted in the first place if thieves know you’re looking out for each other.
4.Keep an Up-to-Date Photo
A recent photo of your pet can serve as proof that you’re his rightful owner. A microchip can also serve this purpose.
What to Do If Your Dog Is Stolen
If you think your dog has been stolen, call the police and make a police report. Also notify your local animal control officer. If your dog is microchipped, you can ask to have its serial number and your dog’s description added to the “stolen article” category on the National Crime Information Center.
Next, put up “Lost Dog” flyers with your dog’s photo in your neighborhood and post it online to your social circles and also local sites that report lost pets. Ask around in your neighborhood whether anyone saw any suspicious activity when your pet went missing.
Another option is to contact your local TV station, radio station and newspaper and ask them to report your lost pet online. State that a reward is offered for your pet’s return (but don’t say how much). You can also keep an eye out for any online ads advertising the sale of a pet that meets your pet’s description.
Hopefully you will never need to use these suggestions, but if the unthinkable does happen, you will at least be prepared. Quick action may save the life of your pet. Post your pet’s info on websites such as FidoFinder, PawBoost, LOSTMYDOGGIE.COM, The Center for Lost Pets, PetFinder and Pet FBI. Also post information on your community’s social media page.
People Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pets
Our nutrition experts have put together a handy list of the top toxic people foods to avoid feeding your pet. As always, if you suspect your pet has eaten any of the following foods, please note the amount ingested and contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
Alcohol
Avocado
Chocolate, Coffee and Caffeine
Citrus
Coconut and Coconut Oil
Grapes and Raisins
Macadamia Nuts
Milk and Dairy
Nuts
Onions, Garlic, Chives
Raw/Undercooked Meat, Eggs and Bones
Salt and Salty Snack Foods
Xylitol
Yeast Dough
For detailed information about why these foods are dangerous you can visit this webpage at the ASPCA: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/people-foods-avoid-feeding-your-pets
Here is a website address for information about foods and items that contain Xylitol which can be deadly to your pet!! Copy and paste the address into your browser to get to this information!!
http://www.preventivevet.com/xylitol-products-toxic-for-dogs
http://www.preventivevet.com/xylitol-products-toxic-for-dogs
Find out about diarrhea and natural remedies for it at this website:
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2017/02/26/diarrhea-in-pets.aspx?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=facebookpets_ranart&utm_campaign=20170503_diarrhea-in-pets
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2017/02/26/diarrhea-in-pets.aspx?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=facebookpets_ranart&utm_campaign=20170503_diarrhea-in-pets
Pet Dehydration
By Dr. Becker
Pets are like their owners in many ways, and for dogs and cats this includes their need for plenty of pure, fresh water.
Dogs and cats are made up of mostly water, which is required for maintaining crucial body processes like regulating body temperature, flushing out waste, cushioning the brain, and transporting nutrients through the bloodstream.
How much water your pet requires to stay healthy depends on a number of factors, including her size, diet, age, activity level and environment. Hot weather will increase your pet’s water requirements, for instance, as will eating a primarily dry-food diet.
It can also be difficult to determine how much water your pet is drinking each day, especially if you have multiple pets sharing the same water bowl. Keeping an eye out for signs of potential dehydration is therefore incredibly important, as is making an effort to increase your pet’s water intake if you discover any.
Signs Your Pet May Be Dehydrated
One of the simplest ways to determine if your pet needs to drink more water is to lift some skin at the back of her neck, then let it go. In a well-hydrated animal, the skin will quickly fall back into place. If your pet is dehydrated, however, the skin will fall slower and may stay in a tent formation.
You can also check your pet’s gums; they should be moist and slick. If your pet’s gums are dry or sticky, she probably needs more water. Also, if you press on your pet’s gums, they should turn white and then quickly turn back to pink when you remove your finger.
If the gums take a while to regain their pink color, your pet may be dehydrated. Other signs of dehydration include:
· Fatigue
· Loss of appetite
· Panting (dogs)
· Sunken or dry eyes, dry nose and gums
· Constipation
Signs of severe dehydration include weakness and difficulty walking. If your pet is severely dehydrated, get to an emergency veterinary center right away, as your pet will need to be given fluids intravenously or subcutaneously.
How Much Water Does Your Pet Need?
A healthy dog should drink, on average, between one-half and 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight each day. A typical cat may require from 5 to 10 ounces of water daily.
Puppies and kittens, as well as senior pets, need more water than adult dogs, and toy dog breeds are also especially prone to dehydration. Pets with certain health conditions, including kidney disease and diabetes, may also require more water than average.
If your cat or dog lived in the wild, her natural diet (prey) would be around 70 percent water. A nutritionally balanced, fresh, species-appropriate diet will also be about 70to 80 percent water, as will high-quality canned food. On the contrary, dry food is only 5to 10 percent water.
If your pet is eating moisture-rich food, some of her water requirements will be met during her meals. However, if you’re feeding mostly dry food, which I don’t recommend, she may need more water than average to compensate for the dry diet.
Feeding cats or dogs a dry-food diet actually puts incredible stress on the kidneys because of its lack of moisture.
How to Get Your Pet to Drink More Water
As mentioned, one of the easiest ways to increase your pet’s daily fluid intake is to feed a moisture-rich, fresh, species-appropriate diet or, alternatively, high-quality canned food. If your pet’s water intake is still an issue, be sure to offer her fresh, filtered water (in a clean bowl) daily.
Many cats enjoy drinking from a pet water fountain, and you can also give your pet bone broth (and even bone broth popsicles in the summer) to increase her fluid intake. Be sure to also offer your pet extra water when the weather is hot or when she’s been very active.
If your dog is still resisting his water bowl, try offering plenty of praise and a treat whenever you catch him taking a drink. It will help reinforce this positive behavior. If you’re not sure how much water your pet tends to drink in a day, try to keep a close eye on it so you can gauge what’s normal and what’s not.
If your pet suddenly starts drinking more or less water than normal, it can be a sign of an underlying health condition that you should have checked out by your veterinarian.
Dogs with pancreatitis, parvovirus, or leptospirosis, tend not to drink much water, for instance, while a bladder infection, other types of infection, or a metabolic problem such as Cushings Disease or Diabetes can cause excessive thirst and water consumption.
One of my favorite ways to support animals struggling to maintain their hydration status is to provide homopathic tissues salts (I use Bioplasma®). I have found these all-natural pellets to be invaluable in re-establishing electrolyte balance in my injured and orphaned wildlife patients, as well as debilitated companion animals.
Does Your Pet Drink Too Much Water?
Some pets, dogs in particular, may drink more water than they need, leading to a potentially deadly condition known as water intoxication or hyponatremia. If too much water is ingested, it can throw off the body’s electrolyte balance, leading to dangerously low sodium levels.
Signs of water intoxication include bloating, lethargy, pale gums, vomiting and excessive drooling. In severe cases, it can lead to loss of consciousness, seizures, coma and death. Dogs that spend a lot of time in the water are most at risk, as they may lap up water while they’re swimming, or diving to retrieve toys.
Dogs that love to play with the spray from a hose or sprinkler are also at risk. If your dog has recently spent time in water and displays any sign of water intoxication, get her to an emergency veterinary center immediately.
By Dr. Becker
Pets are like their owners in many ways, and for dogs and cats this includes their need for plenty of pure, fresh water.
Dogs and cats are made up of mostly water, which is required for maintaining crucial body processes like regulating body temperature, flushing out waste, cushioning the brain, and transporting nutrients through the bloodstream.
How much water your pet requires to stay healthy depends on a number of factors, including her size, diet, age, activity level and environment. Hot weather will increase your pet’s water requirements, for instance, as will eating a primarily dry-food diet.
It can also be difficult to determine how much water your pet is drinking each day, especially if you have multiple pets sharing the same water bowl. Keeping an eye out for signs of potential dehydration is therefore incredibly important, as is making an effort to increase your pet’s water intake if you discover any.
Signs Your Pet May Be Dehydrated
One of the simplest ways to determine if your pet needs to drink more water is to lift some skin at the back of her neck, then let it go. In a well-hydrated animal, the skin will quickly fall back into place. If your pet is dehydrated, however, the skin will fall slower and may stay in a tent formation.
You can also check your pet’s gums; they should be moist and slick. If your pet’s gums are dry or sticky, she probably needs more water. Also, if you press on your pet’s gums, they should turn white and then quickly turn back to pink when you remove your finger.
If the gums take a while to regain their pink color, your pet may be dehydrated. Other signs of dehydration include:
· Fatigue
· Loss of appetite
· Panting (dogs)
· Sunken or dry eyes, dry nose and gums
· Constipation
Signs of severe dehydration include weakness and difficulty walking. If your pet is severely dehydrated, get to an emergency veterinary center right away, as your pet will need to be given fluids intravenously or subcutaneously.
How Much Water Does Your Pet Need?
A healthy dog should drink, on average, between one-half and 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight each day. A typical cat may require from 5 to 10 ounces of water daily.
Puppies and kittens, as well as senior pets, need more water than adult dogs, and toy dog breeds are also especially prone to dehydration. Pets with certain health conditions, including kidney disease and diabetes, may also require more water than average.
If your cat or dog lived in the wild, her natural diet (prey) would be around 70 percent water. A nutritionally balanced, fresh, species-appropriate diet will also be about 70to 80 percent water, as will high-quality canned food. On the contrary, dry food is only 5to 10 percent water.
If your pet is eating moisture-rich food, some of her water requirements will be met during her meals. However, if you’re feeding mostly dry food, which I don’t recommend, she may need more water than average to compensate for the dry diet.
Feeding cats or dogs a dry-food diet actually puts incredible stress on the kidneys because of its lack of moisture.
How to Get Your Pet to Drink More Water
As mentioned, one of the easiest ways to increase your pet’s daily fluid intake is to feed a moisture-rich, fresh, species-appropriate diet or, alternatively, high-quality canned food. If your pet’s water intake is still an issue, be sure to offer her fresh, filtered water (in a clean bowl) daily.
Many cats enjoy drinking from a pet water fountain, and you can also give your pet bone broth (and even bone broth popsicles in the summer) to increase her fluid intake. Be sure to also offer your pet extra water when the weather is hot or when she’s been very active.
If your dog is still resisting his water bowl, try offering plenty of praise and a treat whenever you catch him taking a drink. It will help reinforce this positive behavior. If you’re not sure how much water your pet tends to drink in a day, try to keep a close eye on it so you can gauge what’s normal and what’s not.
If your pet suddenly starts drinking more or less water than normal, it can be a sign of an underlying health condition that you should have checked out by your veterinarian.
Dogs with pancreatitis, parvovirus, or leptospirosis, tend not to drink much water, for instance, while a bladder infection, other types of infection, or a metabolic problem such as Cushings Disease or Diabetes can cause excessive thirst and water consumption.
One of my favorite ways to support animals struggling to maintain their hydration status is to provide homopathic tissues salts (I use Bioplasma®). I have found these all-natural pellets to be invaluable in re-establishing electrolyte balance in my injured and orphaned wildlife patients, as well as debilitated companion animals.
Does Your Pet Drink Too Much Water?
Some pets, dogs in particular, may drink more water than they need, leading to a potentially deadly condition known as water intoxication or hyponatremia. If too much water is ingested, it can throw off the body’s electrolyte balance, leading to dangerously low sodium levels.
Signs of water intoxication include bloating, lethargy, pale gums, vomiting and excessive drooling. In severe cases, it can lead to loss of consciousness, seizures, coma and death. Dogs that spend a lot of time in the water are most at risk, as they may lap up water while they’re swimming, or diving to retrieve toys.
Dogs that love to play with the spray from a hose or sprinkler are also at risk. If your dog has recently spent time in water and displays any sign of water intoxication, get her to an emergency veterinary center immediately.
If You Ever Wanted To Know What Your Dog Is Thinking You Have To Read This!
By
Kim Deisher
I know I have days where my dogs follow me around and give me those looks but I just cannot tell what they want. I always wished I could read their minds and know what they are thinking.
This is especially true because most people’s dogs are part of the family. I know our dog sleeps in our bed and sneaks snacks from the kids at the table.
They are our best friends and yet unlike our human friends they can’t just tell us what they are thinking and feeling. Wouldn’t you just love to be able to have a conversation with Sparky or Spot? What would they say?!
But despite not being able to talk to them they tell us how they feel in other ways. It’s just the best when your sweet pup is laying on the floor and as soon as you walk in the room you see their tail go thump, thump. But you still don’t really know what they’re thinking.
What if there were a way to actually know what’s going through their mind?
While we have yet to develop a tool that could translate all our dog’s thoughts and feelings, scientists have narrowed down how to tell if your dog loves you.
They have come up with sure fire signs that if your dog does, they are literally telling you they love you. See below for those top indicators your pooch is telling you they love you!
1. They stare deep into your eyes
Dog expert Brian Hare said that when your dog makes eye contact with you and looks at you with those sweet big eyes, they are literally “hugging you with their eyes”. A chemical called Oxytocin is released whenever you and your pup are playing or even just snuggling up on the couch. It’s this same hormone that helps a baby bond with their mother.
2. They yawn at the same time as you
It’s common knowledge that yawns are contagious. Scientist says it is a natural way of showing empathy toward another person. While we can’t tell if dogs feel empathy, it is thought that when your dog mirrors their human yawning it is because they have bonded and love their person.
3. They lean on you
Dogs will lean against their human for many different reasons. It may be because they are anxious or in a new situation. But it is also thought that dogs lean on their humans as a sign of affection. They think of us as their protectors and no matter what the reason, lean on us because it makes them feel safe.
4. They go crazy when your get home
This besides wagging their tail may be the most obvious of all the signs. When you walk in the door and your dog almost faints they are so happy, it’s a pretty big sign how much they love you.
5. They have to sleep in your room or bed
Dog expert Gregory Berns says that if your dog is wanting to sleep with you in your room or bed they are showing signs that your family is actually a pack and they want to be part of it.
Any time your dog wants to snuggle or be near you this is their way of showing how much they care.
6. They insist you must have their favorite toy
If your dog is constantly giving you his most prized possession like mine does, this is not just a sign of affection. It is also thought this is their way of identifying you as their pack leader. Because of this they want to please you by sharing the thing they love most. It’s the highest dog pack honor!
While dog studies are still ongoing we have determined that through these sings of affection it is possible to at least know when your dog is thinking “I love you”. And we love this!!
By
Kim Deisher
I know I have days where my dogs follow me around and give me those looks but I just cannot tell what they want. I always wished I could read their minds and know what they are thinking.
This is especially true because most people’s dogs are part of the family. I know our dog sleeps in our bed and sneaks snacks from the kids at the table.
They are our best friends and yet unlike our human friends they can’t just tell us what they are thinking and feeling. Wouldn’t you just love to be able to have a conversation with Sparky or Spot? What would they say?!
But despite not being able to talk to them they tell us how they feel in other ways. It’s just the best when your sweet pup is laying on the floor and as soon as you walk in the room you see their tail go thump, thump. But you still don’t really know what they’re thinking.
What if there were a way to actually know what’s going through their mind?
While we have yet to develop a tool that could translate all our dog’s thoughts and feelings, scientists have narrowed down how to tell if your dog loves you.
They have come up with sure fire signs that if your dog does, they are literally telling you they love you. See below for those top indicators your pooch is telling you they love you!
1. They stare deep into your eyes
Dog expert Brian Hare said that when your dog makes eye contact with you and looks at you with those sweet big eyes, they are literally “hugging you with their eyes”. A chemical called Oxytocin is released whenever you and your pup are playing or even just snuggling up on the couch. It’s this same hormone that helps a baby bond with their mother.
2. They yawn at the same time as you
It’s common knowledge that yawns are contagious. Scientist says it is a natural way of showing empathy toward another person. While we can’t tell if dogs feel empathy, it is thought that when your dog mirrors their human yawning it is because they have bonded and love their person.
3. They lean on you
Dogs will lean against their human for many different reasons. It may be because they are anxious or in a new situation. But it is also thought that dogs lean on their humans as a sign of affection. They think of us as their protectors and no matter what the reason, lean on us because it makes them feel safe.
4. They go crazy when your get home
This besides wagging their tail may be the most obvious of all the signs. When you walk in the door and your dog almost faints they are so happy, it’s a pretty big sign how much they love you.
5. They have to sleep in your room or bed
Dog expert Gregory Berns says that if your dog is wanting to sleep with you in your room or bed they are showing signs that your family is actually a pack and they want to be part of it.
Any time your dog wants to snuggle or be near you this is their way of showing how much they care.
6. They insist you must have their favorite toy
If your dog is constantly giving you his most prized possession like mine does, this is not just a sign of affection. It is also thought this is their way of identifying you as their pack leader. Because of this they want to please you by sharing the thing they love most. It’s the highest dog pack honor!
While dog studies are still ongoing we have determined that through these sings of affection it is possible to at least know when your dog is thinking “I love you”. And we love this!!
SO JUST HOW LONG DOES A BAG OF KIBBLE LAST ONCE IT’S OPENED?
In physical appearance, maybe 100 million years. But what about nutrition-wise?
ANSWER: 2 WEEKS, TOPS.
Yep, 14 days if you’re lucky according to Steve Brown, author and a world-renowned pioneer in the development of formulas for pet food.
Many pet owners today purchase massive bags of kibble because of the value or deals that are offered. The more kibble, the sweeter the deal.
Wait a minute! Doesn’t the small print on the bag of pet food say that this bag has a one-year best before date?
Sure it does, but this refers to when the bag is unopened. Once opened and oxygen gets to the kibble, it’s a whole new ball game! Why is this? Simply put, it’s because of a villain called “Oxidation”.
SO WHO IS THIS OXIDATION?
According to Ascenta Health: “The best way to explain oxidation is to give you the example of rust. Rust is just a generic term applied to the reddish iron oxide formed when iron reacts with oxygen in the environment. Oil, like fish, also reacts with oxygen and initiates an undesirable series of chemical reactions that eventually produces rancidity in oil.”
Oxidation occurs as soon as the oil comes into contact with oxygen from the environment. Since pet food is loaded with an array of different fats and oils, some of those fats are extremely sensitive to oxygen. Here is where the oxidization does its dirty work by making these fats go rancid.
BUT DON’T MANUFACTURERS ADD ANTIOXIDANTS TO PROTECT THE FAT
Sure, the pet food companies use antioxidants called “mixed tocopherols” to help slow down this oxidization problem, but every time the bag of kibble is opened and exposed to oxygen, eventually those antioxidants succumb to oxidization and are all oxidized. Once destroyed, problems develop.
What are the problems? Fats are damaged, starting with the more fragile omega 3 fatty acids, once damaged they become rancid. Rancid is the term used to describe oil that has spoiled or gone off.
“Rancid fish oil may increase your risk of heart disease, atherosclerosis and blood clots. When you consume rancid fish oils, your body must use its stores of antioxidants such as vitamin E to neutralize the rancid oils, leaving fewer of these resources available to your body for cellular repair and disease prevention.” –Livestrong
Animal studies using dogs and other animals show vitamin, protein, and fat deficiencies because of rancid fat. (Quackenbush F. J Am Oil Chem Soc,1945)
Studies show that frequent consumption of oxidized fats may cause cancer and contribute to many chronic health problems. - sciencedirect.com
With the cancer rates climbing to almost 1 in 2 pets, consideration should be taken here, no?
According to Doctor Karen Becker: “Many people don’t realize there’s a chemical reaction happening inside that bag of food. A reaction that is amplified if the bag sits for a long time, or in a hot environment, or sits open. […] once a bag of pet food is opened, things happen. The fats go rancid and potentially react with the synthetic metals, oxidation occurs, and there can be opportunistic bacteria, and mycotoxins to boot. We assume pet food producers know this is the case, but if they don’t collect data on it, then they can remain willfully ignorant. After all, they certainly can’t warn consumers not to open the bags of pet food they’ve purchased.”
WHAT ABOUT STORING KIBBLE IN PLASTIC CONTAINERS?
Imagine: you’re packing a breakfast for work in a small container (let’s say delicious bacon and eggs). After eating that, you use the same container, unwashed, to store lunch (how about a fresh garden salad)! Okay, you’ve eaten your lunch; it’s time to pack supper in that very same unwashed container (let’s put sushi in it this time)! I assume you’re getting my point. Imagine packing all your meals into the same container, over and over, without washing it after each use!
When the fats and oils of the kibble first hit the walls of your pet food containers, they begin to oxidize (especially in the plastic ones). Over time, the residual fats and oils that have settled along the walls and bottom of the bin start to grow rancid and develop the invisible molds that will aid in the destruction of your pet’s health.
Most of your plastic containers have tiny little microscopic pores. When these fats get trapped in them, over time, they too will also grow rancid and contaminate each new batch of food poured into the containers.
LOOKING FOR TIPS ON HOW TO ENHANCE THE LIFE OF DRY FOOD?
1.) According to Steve Brown: Buy smaller bags and try to have the food consumed within 7 days ideally.
2.) Purchase kibble without the fats and add your own fresh fat sources. For example, adding fish oil to the food at the time it’s served.
3.) If you purchase larger bags, then store it in the freezer to prevent oxidization.
4.) Don’t buy bags that are torn or damaged.
5.) If your dog or cat refuses to eat the kibble, do not force them too. They may be telling you something!
6.) Do not use plastic containers to store kibble. If you must, keep the food in it’s original bag and place that bag into the plastic container.
Remember: The long-term consumption of rancid fats for pets leads to long-term health problems for pets.
Rodney Habib - Pet Nutrition Blogger
"An educated, informed and well-researched community of pet owners can only put more pressure on the pet food industry to be better! When pet owners know better, they will only do better!"
From Rodney Habib...Pet Nutrition blogger!
In physical appearance, maybe 100 million years. But what about nutrition-wise?
ANSWER: 2 WEEKS, TOPS.
Yep, 14 days if you’re lucky according to Steve Brown, author and a world-renowned pioneer in the development of formulas for pet food.
Many pet owners today purchase massive bags of kibble because of the value or deals that are offered. The more kibble, the sweeter the deal.
Wait a minute! Doesn’t the small print on the bag of pet food say that this bag has a one-year best before date?
Sure it does, but this refers to when the bag is unopened. Once opened and oxygen gets to the kibble, it’s a whole new ball game! Why is this? Simply put, it’s because of a villain called “Oxidation”.
SO WHO IS THIS OXIDATION?
According to Ascenta Health: “The best way to explain oxidation is to give you the example of rust. Rust is just a generic term applied to the reddish iron oxide formed when iron reacts with oxygen in the environment. Oil, like fish, also reacts with oxygen and initiates an undesirable series of chemical reactions that eventually produces rancidity in oil.”
Oxidation occurs as soon as the oil comes into contact with oxygen from the environment. Since pet food is loaded with an array of different fats and oils, some of those fats are extremely sensitive to oxygen. Here is where the oxidization does its dirty work by making these fats go rancid.
BUT DON’T MANUFACTURERS ADD ANTIOXIDANTS TO PROTECT THE FAT
Sure, the pet food companies use antioxidants called “mixed tocopherols” to help slow down this oxidization problem, but every time the bag of kibble is opened and exposed to oxygen, eventually those antioxidants succumb to oxidization and are all oxidized. Once destroyed, problems develop.
What are the problems? Fats are damaged, starting with the more fragile omega 3 fatty acids, once damaged they become rancid. Rancid is the term used to describe oil that has spoiled or gone off.
“Rancid fish oil may increase your risk of heart disease, atherosclerosis and blood clots. When you consume rancid fish oils, your body must use its stores of antioxidants such as vitamin E to neutralize the rancid oils, leaving fewer of these resources available to your body for cellular repair and disease prevention.” –Livestrong
Animal studies using dogs and other animals show vitamin, protein, and fat deficiencies because of rancid fat. (Quackenbush F. J Am Oil Chem Soc,1945)
Studies show that frequent consumption of oxidized fats may cause cancer and contribute to many chronic health problems. - sciencedirect.com
With the cancer rates climbing to almost 1 in 2 pets, consideration should be taken here, no?
According to Doctor Karen Becker: “Many people don’t realize there’s a chemical reaction happening inside that bag of food. A reaction that is amplified if the bag sits for a long time, or in a hot environment, or sits open. […] once a bag of pet food is opened, things happen. The fats go rancid and potentially react with the synthetic metals, oxidation occurs, and there can be opportunistic bacteria, and mycotoxins to boot. We assume pet food producers know this is the case, but if they don’t collect data on it, then they can remain willfully ignorant. After all, they certainly can’t warn consumers not to open the bags of pet food they’ve purchased.”
WHAT ABOUT STORING KIBBLE IN PLASTIC CONTAINERS?
Imagine: you’re packing a breakfast for work in a small container (let’s say delicious bacon and eggs). After eating that, you use the same container, unwashed, to store lunch (how about a fresh garden salad)! Okay, you’ve eaten your lunch; it’s time to pack supper in that very same unwashed container (let’s put sushi in it this time)! I assume you’re getting my point. Imagine packing all your meals into the same container, over and over, without washing it after each use!
When the fats and oils of the kibble first hit the walls of your pet food containers, they begin to oxidize (especially in the plastic ones). Over time, the residual fats and oils that have settled along the walls and bottom of the bin start to grow rancid and develop the invisible molds that will aid in the destruction of your pet’s health.
Most of your plastic containers have tiny little microscopic pores. When these fats get trapped in them, over time, they too will also grow rancid and contaminate each new batch of food poured into the containers.
LOOKING FOR TIPS ON HOW TO ENHANCE THE LIFE OF DRY FOOD?
1.) According to Steve Brown: Buy smaller bags and try to have the food consumed within 7 days ideally.
2.) Purchase kibble without the fats and add your own fresh fat sources. For example, adding fish oil to the food at the time it’s served.
3.) If you purchase larger bags, then store it in the freezer to prevent oxidization.
4.) Don’t buy bags that are torn or damaged.
5.) If your dog or cat refuses to eat the kibble, do not force them too. They may be telling you something!
6.) Do not use plastic containers to store kibble. If you must, keep the food in it’s original bag and place that bag into the plastic container.
Remember: The long-term consumption of rancid fats for pets leads to long-term health problems for pets.
Rodney Habib - Pet Nutrition Blogger
"An educated, informed and well-researched community of pet owners can only put more pressure on the pet food industry to be better! When pet owners know better, they will only do better!"
From Rodney Habib...Pet Nutrition blogger!
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